Top five reasons school is easier the second time around:
5. Smoother transition. My relationship with my students overall is much, much better. I don't have to spend time learning their names, figuring out who has behavior issues, who I can rely on to be class leaders. Also, they're used to me: my rules, my accent, my zaniness. We're all a lot happier this year!
4. We got teachers! My school's personnel issue has improved vastly. Last year, on a good day we had 4 teachers, including myself and my principal. In reality, it was more like 1 or 2, with my flaky Directeur des Etudes (assistant principal) who hated my principal and pushed the students to wage a war against him, and my principal leading the national legislative elections for my region and therefore traveling at least once a week. That left just me and Monsieur Kamano, the school's chemistry and physics teacher. This year we have been so incredibly lucky. First, the village managed to pool together some resources and to hire two community members, unemployed college grads, to both teach part-time this year (more on that later). Then, the government sent two new teachers: a history/geography teacher, and a French teacher (which we so, so desperately needed). Therefore our numbers have jumped up to 7 teachers including the principal! He is so elated, he doesn't know what to do with himself, having a real faculty. The other day he invited all of the teachers over to his house, where he provided us with a chicken dinner (a huuuuge delicacy in Guinea).
3. ... And those teachers are motivated! Because of this jump in the number of teachers, I've been able to carry out some projects I'd been wanting to do since last year. A few weeks ago, we hosted a Journee de la Sante (Health Day) at my school. There were four themes that we covered: malaria, tobacco and its health risks, hygiene, and sexual health. Two of the other teachers at my school helped out, Tess (the volunteer 12 miles away) came and taught a lesson, and the rest of the faculty assisted in carrying out the day smoothly. Afterwards, they were thrilled with how it went, and suggested every other month we host a conference for the students on different themes. The best part of the day was the evening, when several students came over to my hut (unprompted) to thank me for providing them with the information they'd learned that day.
2. I've been promoted. Since I've been here for a year, I have a lot more pull with what goes on at our school. My principal now looks to me to give punishments to students for misbehavior or tardiness, which is good because I can steer him away from unjust punishments like whipping (yes, that does happen here). Hilariously enough, with the disappearance of my Directeur des Etudes, I have been promoted to Madame la Directrice. Yes, that means I am the assistant principal at my school. Nuts.
1. I have 22 children. In total, I spend 14 hours a week in 10th grade alone. It's the smallest class (22 kids), they are certainly the most motivated (they are facing the high school entrance exam at the end of this year), and if my matronly side has ever come out, it's with these kids. It's definitely tough love...I'm hard on them... but they know I care about them. Also, I've given them all American names that they have fully embraced. Many may or may not be named after some of my friends back at home...
But there are some things that really have been hard this go around:
During vacances not one, not two, but three of my female students (one in 7th grade and two in 8th grade) were married off. These are great girls: some of the more active students in my girls' club, attended school regularly, and actually studied. One story is especially upsetting. An older man from Kankan was promised to marry one of my 10th grade girls. When he came to Cissela to fetch her, she ran away. After expressing his anger and disappointment with the village for promising him a young wife, another man in my village offered up his daughter (Mariame, one of my best 8th graders) to take the place of Tidanke, the girl who fled. With no say in the matter, Mariame was immediately taken away to Kankan. I haven't seen or heard from her since last year. This all happened when I was away for the summer, but when I came back my principal angrily told me the story. Similarly, just this past week my 16-year-old 9th grader, Hawa, was promised to a 60-year-old man. She was horrified and confided in me in tears that she didn't want to marry him. My principal got the local authorities involved and tried to convince Hawa's parents to let her continue with her schooling, but they were enticed by the hefty bride price that was offered. She was essentially forced into marrying a man; she is his 3rd wife and his fourth child is the same age as Hawa. Things like this make me so angry and force me to fight back tears.
Additionally, I'm beginning to question how much the general population of Cissela sees the importance in education. My students' parents are incredibly hands off; they very rarely ask their children for their grades and 90% of them do not attend the award ceremony we hold at the end of each trimester. They also don't seem to care whether or not their children show up to school on time or at all, which makes tardiness and absence a huge issue. One of my 10th graders literally comes to school twice a week. However, when it comes to complaining about the functioning of our school, parents suddenly care a whole lot. Many complain incessantly about how our school lacks teachers and that their kids are not getting all of the subjects they need. I'm sure you can imagine how thrilled we were when we got word that the government was sending 2 new teachers. It's up to the community to provide their housing; my principal informed the village chief a month in advance and he promised that he'd find a hut for each of the new teachers. However, when they arrived a full month later, the chief acted like we'd never asked him to help us out. My principal himself had to pull many strings to find housing for both of them, so fortunately they didn't flee. Similarly, the village signed a contract with the 2 community teachers to pay them each 200,000 Guinean francs/month (about $30), yet at the end of the month they couldn't (or wouldn't) come up with the money. Again, it fell to my principal to call a big meeting with the authorities, teachers, and parents of students (1 of whom showed up), to figure out a payment plan for those teachers. It's lose-lose: either we don't have teachers and everyone complains, or we get teachers but they are unwelcome.
I guess these difficulties are made a whole lot harder by the fact that it's my second year, so I feel really invested in the success of my school and my students. It's particularly frustrating to have so many things completely beyond my control.
Well, ca va. I can currently take a break from constantly obsessing over school, since it is December break! I'm in Conakry, here to pick up.... MOM AND DAD! They are visiting beautiful Guinea for one week. I can't wait to show them around, but it's a little terrifying to consider all of the things that could go wrong! Keep your fingers crossed for me. I'll be picking them up at the airport Christmas night.... talk about a holiday treat. :) Merry Christmas from Guinea!
The chronicles of a Peace Corps Volunteer's two years in Guinea, West Africa.
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Thursday, October 17, 2013
Standing Fast
Each time I get online, it becomes harder and harder to
write blog posts. Living in Cissela for over one year now, life really has
become routine. That said, I'm going to try something new for this post.
September 12, 2013
Tess and I had an excellent day. We set up a booth in my market, amidst the market ladies selling oil, sugar, eggplant, and fried sweet potatoes. The point of the booth was not financial gain, however, it was to educate people about malaria, the number one killer in Guinea. We made a huge banner that said, in French, "I sleep under my mosquito net." My friend Lancine, a senior in high school back au village for vacation, helped us explain to everyone what we were doing in Malinke. We got over 100 people to sign a pledge stating they'd sleep under their mosquito net every night.
In the evening, we went to Moussa's boutique, the one shop in my village. It's also a café, where men sit around smoking cigarettes and drinking Nescafe, and probably engage in other taboo activities after the sun goes down (aka, drinking). We hung up the banner there since it's one of the busiest spots in my village and left Moussa with a marker so people can add signatures. Many grown men added on while we were there! Moussa was excited about having some decoration for his shop, so it was a win-win situation.
September 14, 2013
Tess and I had an excellent day. We set up a booth in my market, amidst the market ladies selling oil, sugar, eggplant, and fried sweet potatoes. The point of the booth was not financial gain, however, it was to educate people about malaria, the number one killer in Guinea. We made a huge banner that said, in French, "I sleep under my mosquito net." My friend Lancine, a senior in high school back au village for vacation, helped us explain to everyone what we were doing in Malinke. We got over 100 people to sign a pledge stating they'd sleep under their mosquito net every night.
In the evening, we went to Moussa's boutique, the one shop in my village. It's also a café, where men sit around smoking cigarettes and drinking Nescafe, and probably engage in other taboo activities after the sun goes down (aka, drinking). We hung up the banner there since it's one of the busiest spots in my village and left Moussa with a marker so people can add signatures. Many grown men added on while we were there! Moussa was excited about having some decoration for his shop, so it was a win-win situation.
September 14, 2013
I’ve always joked around with Hawa about going to help her
out in the fields, but this morning I decided to bite the bullet and do it.
Once my host family heard I’d actually be accompanying Hawa au champ, they all shouted in protest,
saying things in hysteria like “but the field is so far,” “you will bit by
insects,” and “it’s too tiring!” I laughed their warnings off – if the Guineans
here are able to do it, then I should, too.
At around 9AM Hawa and I walked through the village to
another family’s house whose is field is next to ours. Mballou, the mother of this
family, would be joining us. We ate a quick breakfast of corn porridge out of a
communal bowl (my favorite meal here) and headed off. Walking through the
village with Hawa and Mballou, people continuously shouted at me in Malinke,
asking if I was really going to help in the fields. Yes, I responded! This
always ended in them breaking out in laughter.
Before we could even begin the farming, we had to actually
get to their plot, which was a feat in itself. It’s approximately three miles
on a dirt path by foot.
We walked…
And walked…
And finally arrived at their field, which was beautiful and green with a view of mountains in the distance.
Mballou went off to work in her family’s area, and I went with Hawa to her peanut plot. Today’s work was to weed around the peanut plants, which we did by hand with no gardening gloves, which resulted in my hands looking like this:
Hawa worked barefoot, which I will never understand. While we worked we talked and talked, me with my broken Malinke that really she only understands. I’m so grateful to have her in my life.
Finally, after about four hours of weeding, it was time to
go home. I had walked my bike out there with Mballou and Hawa, so I was able to
get home quickly, leaving them to slowly trudge back. Once my host family took
one look at me they exploded in laughter – I did look like a dirty, sweaty
mess, I will admit. But I did seem to gain some level of respect with them –
yes, I went, and I actually did the work, thankyouverymuch.
I cleaned up in time for Hawa to get home and join me for lunch.
September 28, 2013
Today was the day that Guineans have been awaiting for far
too long…Election Day! National legislative elections were supposed to occur
after the presidential election in 2010, but they’ve bene pushed back so many
times for so many reasons. As Peace Corps volunteers we’ve all been wary of the
elctions, because unfortunately in countries like Guinea, they tend to
lead to trouble that could get us evacuated. I by no means am an expert on the
Guinean political situation, but I will say that there is a lot of tension
between parties and that these parties tend to be divided on ethnic lines.
Because Peace Corps is aware that elections can spark
problems in country, we have to take many precautions and know our “emergency
action plan” – basically, where to go and how to get there if things escalate. From September 14 to October 11, we are on “standfast,” meaning we can’t go
further than 10 kilometers from site and we have to communicate our location to
Peace Corps everyday.
Everything I saw today indicated that the elections went smoothly.
I’ve heard that it was calm across the country, even in Conakry. In my village,
there were three polling stations, including my host family’s house. In total,
approximately 500 adults voted here. The results are to be announced in 72
hours. Let’s hope that everything remains calm!
September 29, 2013
To avoid sitting around, twiddling my thumbs, and awaiting
the election results, today I biked to a neighboring village to visit one of my
students and to meet his family. The student is Ibrahime Fofana, one of my best
10th graders last year who passed the brevet and thus will be headed
off to high school in the coming weeks. The bike ride to Somokoro is beautiful,
through rice paddies and peanut fields. Once I arrived, I stopped at the cluster
of boutiques and cafes in the center of town, where a group of people were
sitting around eating breakfast and drinking Nescafe. Everyone stared very
confusedly at me, until I greeted them in Malinke and sat down next to them.
They relaxed and immediately began chatting me up. Very quickly word must have spread that a toubabou was in
Somokoro, because within minutes Ibrahime appeared in front of me to take me to
his family’s compound. Their cluster of huts is incredibly scenic – surrounded
by an orchard of mango, cashew, and orange trees. We sat under a mango tree and
I met the whole family: Ibrahime’s 65-year-old father who has lived through __
regimes in Guinea’s history (including the French), his mother, aunt and uncle,
and many of his siblings. We ate
cassava, drank tea, and chatted. After a few hours, I decided to head back
home. The family gave me a giant bag of peanuts and a chicken – yes, a live
chicken! I told them I couldn’t accept but they insisted; they said it was so
rare for a teacher to travel to meet their student’s family. They wanted to tie
the chicken to my bike, which I protested, then they suggested that Ibrahime
would drive to Cissela on his motorcycle the coming week. So I guess I’ll have
a new pet!
October 4, 2013
Hawa’s baby, Saran, is not well. I’m so worried.
The day before yesterday, she came down with a fever and was
refusing to eat. Yesterday she was no better so Hawa, Diama and I took her to
our health center. It was very crowded – full of pregnant women and babies coming
to get vaccinated. Also, that morning Moussa Kalle, one of the respected elders
in our village, was in a serious motorcycle accident; essentially the entire
village kept stopping in to check on him. Eventually, the doctor saw Saran.
Diagnostics aren’t really possible here – they didn’t even take the baby’s
temperature – so he prescribed a whole slew of medicine, including malaria
medication and vitamins.
The past 24 hours, Hawa has been trying to give Saran the
medication, but she keeps vomiting it all up. Then, this evening, she took a
turn for the worse. My entire host family rushed off on motorcycles to the
health center, leaving me sitting on the porch alone and freaking out.
Eventually they all came back; Saran was asleep but was clearly suffering. We
put her tiny self in a giant bed and all uf us ladies sat around in the dark
with a flashlight pointed on her, watching her fitful sleep. Tons of people
from around the village, upon hearing about Saran’s malady, stopped by to
recite blessings and well wishes.
I stayed with the women until 10PM, when Hawa was finally
calm enough to step away for a few minutes and eat dinner. Now I’m in my hut stressing out. I
can’t imagine I’ll be sleeping a lot tonight.
October 7, 2013
Oh, I am frustrated! Over the past few days, the Guinean
government has announced three different dates for the first day of school.
Yes, three: October 3, October 7 (today), and October 21! Confusion ensues, of
course. Naturally no one showed up to school today. The elections have added so
much confusion this year. Not to mention, Tabaski, a huge holiday, is the 15th,
and many of my students won’t be back in Cissela until after then.
The results of the elections still haven’t been announced.
There is a lot of tension/uncertainty right now. The only way for me to get
news is through the few text messages Peace Corps sends each day. Currently the
government and opposition are in negotiations, trying to come to terms they can
both agree upon. Peace Corps suggests that regardless, once all of the results
are announced, they will be contentious and there will be unrest, it’s just
unclear to what degree. It’s all quite stressful, yet it’s interesting because
life in Cissela seems like the elections never happened. No one is talking
about them!
I’m really worried about my school this year. One of the
teachers quit, so right now we only have three employees: me, my principal, and
the chemistry/physics teacher. We’re hoping to get at least one more teacher
through the community, but that is difficult because the village has to come up
with the money to pay them. The ministry of education has promised to send us
more teachers this year but I’m not holding my breath. I’m just hoping school
actually starts soon; otherwise there is no way I’m going to get through the
curriculum.
In other news, it seems Saran is doing better. A few days
ago she still was not improving, so Hawa took her to Kankan to go to a real
hospital. They are still not back but I’ve been talking to Hawa a lot and she
says Saran is doing a lot better. Phew. At least there’s some good news these
days.
It's now October 17, 2013. I'm sitting in Kankan, the first time I'm getting out of Cissela in 5 weeks. Standfast has been called off (there was a question for some time about whether it'd be extended since election results remain unannounced), so I'm taking a weekend break. School still hasn't started, but I'm hoping it will actually begin this coming week. Tabaski, the big holiday where each family sacrifices a sheep or a cow, was this past week. I had a great time -- got all dressed up in Guinean clothes, grilled meat with friends, drank tea, attended the evening village soccer game, and went out at night to the "soirée," where we danced til 2AM. I was blown away by the generosity saw on Tabaski. Many families in my village didn't have the means to buy a sheep to slaughter; my host family paired up with the neighbors to buy one. Within an hour of its butchering, my host father had handed out 95% of the meat to the rest of the village. This is a huge deal, especially because we almost never have meat since it's so expensive.
Hawa is still here in Kankan; I saw her and Saran today and the baby is doing much better, Dieu merci. I'm going to spend the day with her and our family friend on Saturday and I'll hopefully convince her to come back to Cissela with me on Sunday; to be honest, the past few weeks without her have been incredibly lonely. I always knew that she was a huge part of my village life, but I didn't realize to what extent. First of all, however, I need some serious R&R. In fact, I'm now going to get into bed and watch a movie. And maybe eat some cookies. It's the little things!
It's now October 17, 2013. I'm sitting in Kankan, the first time I'm getting out of Cissela in 5 weeks. Standfast has been called off (there was a question for some time about whether it'd be extended since election results remain unannounced), so I'm taking a weekend break. School still hasn't started, but I'm hoping it will actually begin this coming week. Tabaski, the big holiday where each family sacrifices a sheep or a cow, was this past week. I had a great time -- got all dressed up in Guinean clothes, grilled meat with friends, drank tea, attended the evening village soccer game, and went out at night to the "soirée," where we danced til 2AM. I was blown away by the generosity saw on Tabaski. Many families in my village didn't have the means to buy a sheep to slaughter; my host family paired up with the neighbors to buy one. Within an hour of its butchering, my host father had handed out 95% of the meat to the rest of the village. This is a huge deal, especially because we almost never have meat since it's so expensive.
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| Me and Diama on Tabaski |
Monday, August 12, 2013
Round 2
Rainy season again. Ramadan again. A new training class has
come in to start their 11-week pre-service training. I guess that means I’ve
been here for over a year. Part of me feels like it’s only been a few months,
while another part of me feels like it’s been years. I guess that’s natural;
some weeks go so slowly I can’t believe it, while other weeks feel like a day.
It’s certainly a feeling of accomplishment (I’m halfway there!) but doing it
all over again is a daunting (yet exciting) prospect. Thinking about all of the
things, both good and bad, that have happened to me this year, and the giant
question mark that this year brings actually puts butterflies in my stomach.
G-20, the group that helped train my stage, is finally headed home after their
27 months of service. It’s sad to see them go, but I’m happy for them – it is
relieving to see them actually finish up! (Guinea hasn’t had a group complete
their 27 months in years and years, with all of the interruptions and
evacuations that have occurred.)
In any case, summer is flying by. I had an incredibly
rejuvenating trip to France; I spent time in Paris, Toulouse, hopped over to
Barcelona for a few nights, and just felt generally spoiled by all of the food
and beauty. I was a bit nervous coming back to Guinea (at that point another
year seemed more daunting than exciting) but things have been much better than
I could have hoped for. It’s amazing how comfortable I am in Guinea now, and
how much it does feel like home. I flew back into Conakry, only to find that my
luggage had been lost (of course), so I had to wait a few days and come back to
the airport to look for it (no delivery service here). To my relief my bags
made it, and I ended up spending 20 minutes talking to the security officer
there. He was from a village neighboring Cissela; he was so incredibly excited
that I knew his home that he proceeded to call all of his family and tell them
to protect and watch out for me. They knew who I was having seen me riding my
bike. Small world, small country; it was good to be back.
I came straight to Dubreka, the city where PC Guinea trains
its volunteers, to spend a few weeks working as a volunteer trainer; in other
words, to help out with getting the new stagiaires accustomed to living in
Guinea. It was great to be back in Dubreka. I lived in a house with several of
the other volunteer trainers, got to catch up with the Guinean trainers that I
adore, and I worked on my Malinke with a language trainer. I was able to do
many of the things I did last year doing training without realizing how lucky I
was: eat salads everyday, bike to the waterfall, visit my host family…
The new stage is great. They are much smaller than my group
(only 17, whereas mine was 27) but they have an awesome outlook on things.
Honestly, it’s been nice to be around such optimism and it helps to reaffirm
why I am here. Being halfway through has definitely led me to question my
effectiveness and rational for being here at all. In addition to being a
trainer, I’m also a semi-trainee, as I’ve been sitting in on the technical
sessions for the math teachers. Next year I’ll be dropping English and teaching
math and biology. I’m looking
forward to it, especially because my school doesn’t have a math teacher and
it’s a huge component of the national exam.
Speaking of national exams: we got the results for the high
school entrance exam! My school succeeded the most of any school in my
prefecture, with around 50 percent passing (I think the national average is
about 20). So, while I’ll still have half of the same 10th graders
that I had last year, I’m really happy for the 16 that will be moving on to
high school.
After about six weeks away from site, I finally went back. I
was only there for a few days but it felt wonderful to be there. My hut was completely
swarmed by children upon my arrival. I visited all of my neighbors, gave gifts
to my host family and friends, cleaned out the school’s direction (where the offices are), met up with a young woman
teacher from the primary school I hope to have work with my girl’s club this
year, and relaxed. The village looks beautiful and green during the rainy
season, although my backyard was truly a jungle that some of my 8th
grade boys had to come over and help me fix up.
After not even a week at site, I left again (boohoo) for the
regional capital, where I met up with the new stagiaires after their site
visit. We cooked great food, I helped show them around the city, and we threw
our annual toga party. Now I’m
back in Dubreka to continue math training. I will be here for a few more weeks;
I’m hoping to be back in village by the start of September. That way, I can
have a month at site to work on projects, lesson plan, and study Malinke before
the school year starts. Then, I’ll be ready to do another year all over again.
Only better the second time around.
Thursday, June 13, 2013
School is OUT
Well it’s been a
while, I know. I’m sorry. The past few months have been crazy BUT I am happy to
report that I survived year one of school!
Where to begin?
At the end of
April, I had a nice treat: Jessie, one of my friends from study abroad in Mali,
came to visit. I went to Conakry to pick her up at the airport, which was
interesting as it was my first time since swearing in last September. Our trips
to Conakry are very regulated now because of unrest surrounding the upcoming
elections (more on that later), so getting in was a bit of a maze. To avoid a
major artery in the city that can be “hot,” I had to wind through taking three
separate taxis and kind of guessing where I was supposed to get out of each
one. Taxis in Conakry are the major mode of transportation; they are not,
however, what you’d picture when I say “taxi.” Each takes its own fixed route,
picking up passengers along the way and dropping them off when they ask, kind
of like a bus. And, in true Guinean fashion, passengers are nice and cozy inside:
two sharing the passenger seat, and four in the back. Fortunately, over the
past 11 or so months I’ve gotten really good at asking Guineans for help, so
many helped me find my way to the Peace Corps office.
In any case,
Jessie arrived; we spent a day in Conakry exchanging money and relaxing, and
then headed to my village. I kind of forgot just how awful traveling in Guinea
is as I’ve become numb to it, so I felt pretty bad putting Jessie through a
tortuous 12 hour bush taxi ride on horrible roads, but arriving to my hut and
falling asleep under the stars (sleeping outside due to hot season) made it
worth it. Jessie spent a week in Cissela. She came to school with me everyday,
which was fun for me and for my students and the other teachers were thrilled,
announcing her presence at the raising of the flag with such pride. She came
with me for all of my daily duties, collecting water at the pump, going to
Banko (a neighboring village) for market day, and meeting with my girl’s club.
My host family (especially the petits) is still asking about Jessie everyday,
saying, “When will she come back?” All in all, she definitely fit in very well.
The one low part
of her visit was when Mariame, one of my 10th grade students, passed
away, which was certainly not easy. She’d been sick for some time and had
missed the past several months of school, but I was still shocked and upset.
Jessie accompanied me to the funeral, wearing a borrowed headscarf from my host
family, and she got to hear the utterly heart-wrenching screams coming from the
mourning mother’s mouth. Once one person starts to cry, others begin, and
there’s no shame in it at all: they are wailing. Not an easy sound to hear. Mariame’s
body arrived in a taxi from Kouroussa, a town 90k away where she’d been sent to
the hospital the night before, and several of my male students carried her out
on a board covered by a sheet. She was buried in Cissela’s cemetery, on a road
out of town. The next day, our entire school went to the mourning family’s
house to pay our respects, sitting on benches within their circle of huts. A
number of people gave speeches in Malinke: our assistant principal, the village
chief (my host father), and the village doyen. We collected money from the
students to help the family pay for the funeral costs, which can be really expensive.
(For example, the family had to pay for a taxi to drive her body back to
Cissela. No hearses in Guinea.) My principal and the other teachers are
heartbroken. Although sickness and death are certainly more commonplace here
than in the U.S., they did not take the death of a student lightly. Just a few
weeks ago I was with my principal in his office; we came across Mariame’s file
and he began to cry. There were three I.D. photos of her inside, and he said we
must give them to her family because pictures are so rare here and they’d need
a way to remember her.
In any case,
Jessie was there for all of this, which was certainly a cross-cultural
experience for her (and for me, of course). After her week in Cissela, she bid
farewell to my village and we headed to Dalaba, a city in the mountains. It
happened to be my birthday and it was really lovely – we spent the day with
several other volunteers eating ice cream, playing mini golf on a very old and
crumbling course built by some French folk, and going out to a few bars in the
evening. The next day, we headed to Doucki where I’d spent spring break. We did
the K.A.H. (kick ass hike) yet again, which was equally as exhausting but also
as beautiful the second time around. I think Jessie especially liked the guide,
Hassan; he may just be the most eccentric Guinean I’ve met. After Doucki, we
went back to Conakry and I bid Jessie farewell. Taking her to the airport was weird, she was about to head to Germany
and all I wanted to do was jump into her suitcase and go eat cheese and drink
beer and be in Europe for a little. But my time will come.
I finally made
it back to my site and swore I would avoid traveling for several weeks; two
Conakry trips in one month equals 48+ hours in a car. That week back was my
last week of classes. (Well, it wasn’t supposed to be but they moved the
national exams to 2 weeks earlier due to elections at the end of June, so we
had to quickly finish everything up.) The finale was a bit of a rush with no closure,
since both the students and the teachers were surprised that everything ended
so quickly.
The following
week was the beginning of national exams.
In Guinea (much like in France), there are three week-long exams: the
entrance exam into collège (middle school) for 6th graders, the brevet
for entrance into lycée (high school) for 10th graders, and the bac
for entrance to university for terminale (final year of high school) students.
The first week was the exam for the youngest level. Cissela’s primary school
was a testing center for the surrounding six primary schools, so we had an
influx of youngsters, several of whom stayed in the living room of my host
family’s house. My principal asked that I help out with the three-day test,
either as a surveillante (proctor) or with paperwork in the office. When I
showed up on the first day, he pulled me aside and told me the delegué, sent
from the Ministry of Education to run the exam, decided to not have me proctor,
because I was not a “Guinean national” and may have “moral problems” with how
they run exams. IN OTHER WORDS, he was saying I’d be too strict with cheating. Well…
more on that later, but I said okay and went to the office to help out with all
of the paperwork. Really makes you appreciate excel when you have to calculate
hundreds of averages and make spreadsheets by hand.
During the
moments when work slowed down in the office, I was able to walk around and see
what was going on in the classrooms. Honestly, what I saw was really upsetting.
I always knew that cheating was a problem in Guinean education, but I did not
think it would be like what I saw. I was expecting the proctors to turn a blind
eye to students cheating off of other students, but what I saw was proctors writing the answers to every question on the
board. For every subject. Everyday. In every room. The first day, I tried
to pull my principal aside and tell him what was going on in the rooms, and he
said, “Oh, that is really not good.” Yet… he did nothing about it. The problem
is just systemic. Even the delegué was in on the charade. The rules for
proctors written by the Ministry of Education are clear and what you would
expect: they are not allowed to help or explain the questions in any way, they
are not to read the answers students are writing, they are not to sit down or
stand by the door of the classroom, etc….yet I saw each of these things occur
multiple times. Needless to say, I was really upset by the end of the week. I
just felt like this system of education is so broken and it’s not going to
change anytime soon, because even the people at the top (like the delegué) are
closing their eyes to fraud. On our last day, while we were cleaning up, the
D.P.E. (the head of education in my prefecture…basically, my principal’s boss)
stopped by to check in on the exam to see if had gone well. The moment he saw a
Peace Corps volunteer was there, he was upset that I wasn’t a proctor and
insisted that I would proctor the brevet the next week. My principal told me
that this was a huge honor and that he was so excited on behalf of our school
that I’d be working for the exam.
Well, I was
very, very worried about this situation. I couldn’t turn down the position
because it was such an honor, but I was not about to stand by while such
obscene cases of cheating went on in the exam. I told myself that if I saw
anything I was really uncomfortable with, I’d walk away and tell them I
couldn’t continue proctoring for the rest of the week. The brevet was in
Sanguiana, a village about 50k east of Cissela on the route nationale. I was
planning on going there even before the proctoring position was offered,
because I wanted to accompany my 30 10th graders for the week. Getting
there was… interesting, to say the least. My school teamed up with a
neighboring village to charter a giant, American school bus to take us. About
80 people piled in, with three to a seat, people sitting on the aisles, and two
on the roof with our luggage. The bus needed to be pushed to get started, which
was quite a feat of strength by the men pushing. While the drive is only 30
miles, it took about two hours because the road is awful, and we arrived while
the sun was setting. All of my
students and my principal stayed in a big, abandoned house, sleeping on prayer
mats on the floor, but fortunately I was able to stay in another volunteer’s
hut for the week.
As for the exam.
The delegué this time around was young and meant BUSINESS. Let me just say that
my faith was restored in the Guinean education system. He was really hard on us
proctors, if only because he knew many among us would try to “help” students on
problems, or would allow cheating between students. So really, I was allowed to
be as strict as I wanted, and it was all falling under the delegué’s wishes. I
developed a bit of a reputation amongst the students, who knew that “madame”
was very strict and watched me like a hawk to see which room I was assigned to
each day, shrieking if they saw me go in their own. It was a bit tricky working
with the other proctors, as we were assigned two to a room, and they weren’t
very accustomed to my way of working. Of the fifteen proctors, three of us were
women, and I was by far the youngest. Regardless, I was happy to be part of an
exam that I can say was done, for the most part, legitimately. The other
proctors definitely allowed a level of cheating between students (chatting and
showing their neighbors answers), but it was certainly an improvement from what
I had seen the week before.
Aside from the
exam itself, I had a really wonderful time in Sanguiana. I spent my days after
the exam at my students’ lodging, helping them study for various subjects,
answering hundreds of questions about America, and taking my meals with them.
It really made me appreciate them; they are a really sweet and fun group. Every
evening at around 10PM a huuuuge group of boys would insist on walking me back
to my hut. I’m really sad that (hopefully) most of them will be off to high
school next year; the closest high school is 50 miles away but most of them go to
Conakry.
Now the school
year is officially over. And for the best part: I AM GOING TO FRANCE ON JUNE
25! My
whole family is flying out and we are spending a week in Toulouse, I’ll have
some time in Paris, and Ethan and I are taking a bus to Barcelona for a few
nights. Also, the political situation in Guinea actually had a turn for the
best; the opposition and the president finally made some compromises, but now
the elections will probably postponed til the fall. I’m not convinced these elections
will ever happen, but for the sake of Guinean democracy let’s hope they do.
I will be eating
cheese and drinking wine for my year anniversary with Guinea, and I can’t think
of a better way to celebrate!
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
Spring Breaking
In many ways, Guinean and American middle schoolers really
aren’t all that different:
Over the past month, I’ve started my unit on reproduction
and sexual health in my 9th grade biology class, only to be met with
nervous giggles, sheepish questions, and painfully embarrassed girls who refuse
to answer even the simplest questions. I’ve met with the girls separately to discuss issues specific
to them and passed around an anonymous question box with the whole class. Sometimes I feel like Mrs. Staples at
Wheeler back in the 6th grade.
Also in my 9th grade, we’ve started a letter
exchange project between my students and Dana Tatlock’s 6th grade
class at The Wheeler School in Providence, RI, my alma mater. It’s been really
fun to see the similarities and differences between the students’ letters. Both
are incredibly curious and excited to be hearing about another culture from a
real student across the world. Upon receiving our first batch of American
letters, I had to answer a LOT of cultural questions: What is lacrosse? What is
a hamburger? What is snow? What is skiing? Why are American families so small,
since here our fathers can have up to 15 kids? Etc, etc, etc. Letters coming
from the states had lots of questions for my students about after school
activities, favorite foods, amount of homework, and sports. One thing that both
batches had in common: knowledge of, and love for, Justin Bieber. All in all, I
think it’s been a really fun project on both ends.
The girls club has continued to be a success. We’ve done a
few art projects, including one where we brainstormed adjectives to describe
women, which sparked some interesting discussions: despite the fact that women
here do basically all of the heavy lifting, “strong” was not a word they tended
to think of, as they all said it was too masculine. Afterwards, they selected
from our list to create a collage of words and images on construction paper,
coming together to represent themselves. We are now making beads from paper,
which we’ll use to make bracelets and necklaces. So, quick plug: for those of
you amazing people that send me packages, good craft projects or other ideas
for activities would be greatly appreciated!
I suppose one way in which students in the states and
students in Guinea differ is over the matter of vacation: Guinean students
simply don’t get excited for it. I think for a lot of my students, going to
school is a break from doing house work, so vacation is just a time where
they’ll be spending even more time cleaning, cooking, getting water, going “en
brousse” to gather wood, going “au champ” to gather straw for making thatch,
etc.
Despite their lack of excitement, spring break finally did
come! In typical Guinean fashion, the expected one week of break turned into
two since people stopped showing up before the break officially started and
came back long after the break officially ended. Sigh.
My spring break was a success. I traveled to the Fouta, the
mountainous region, for a week of hiking and relaxing in the cooler weather! I
started out with a trip hitchhiking to Labe, the regional capital of the Fouta.
The car I found was a nice air-conditioned truck, with two ridiculously nice
guys working for Orange, the cell phone company. One was from Cote d’Ivoire,
and made for a great converser as we wound through the mountains, distracting
me from freaking out as we sped around every curve (did I mention there are no
guard rails?).
We stopped in Dalaba, a somewhat magical city in the
mountains (there is a forest of pine trees!) to pick up my friend Kelsey, who
waited for us on the side of the road next to some ladies selling bean
sandwiches. Our kindly chauffeurs dropped us off right at the Peace Corps house
in Labe, never asking for money until we insisted on pitching in for gas. We
spent three nights in Labe, relaxing, watching a disgusting amount of movies,
and hanging out with a handful of other volunteers who came to meet us. One
night, we cooked enchiladas: YUM. (Granted, the cheese was Laughing Cow, but
you take what you can get here.)
After becoming a vegetable in Labe, we traveled to Doucki, a
tiny village in the mountains, 50 kilometers from the paved road. Our taxi
driver had no idea where we were going, and literally every time we passed a
tiny village he stopped the car and asked where Doucki was. This was
particularly comical, since the car we were in was almost a tin can, and the
front door kept popping open, with poor Kelsey up in the front seat.
Hilariously enough, after stopping about a dozen times to ask for directions,
we stopped in front of an old man, rolled down the window, and the driver yells
in Pulaar (the language of this region), “Excuse me, do you know where um…um…”
(turns to Kelsey) “Where are we going again?” Needless to say, we all exploded
in frustrated laughter…our cab driver didn’t even know the name of our
destination. Despite these minor blips, we finally made it there, to find a
wonderful man named Hassan (fluent in French, English, and Spanish) with quite
the set-up. We stayed in really adorable huts in his compound, ate meals in a
gazebo filled with bamboo furniture and hammocks, and slept under THICK
blankets – it was coooold! The main purpose of our trip was to see what this
Doucki place was all about, since so many people had told me that it is
stunningly beautiful. Well…they were right. Our first day there, we were fed a
delicious Guinean meal of corn mush and peanut sauce (yes, it is tasty), and
headed off on an afternoon of hiking. It turns out Doucki is on the top of a
cliff perched over the largest valley in Guinea, which looks a little bit like
the African Grand Canyon. Because of this, all of the hikes start with a
descent and end with an ascent, which is the opposite of what my
mountain-climbing self is accustomed to! The first day of hiking, we were all
just blown away by the scenery. Hassan took us to two separate waterfalls where
we could go swimming, had us lie on our stomachs to stick our head over a cliff
(sorry Dad), and showed us the hilarious rock formations that he’s named: the
pregnant woman, the boat, and my favorite one, our favorite extra terrestrial,
ET. We got back from the hike just in time for dinner, ate some rice and sauce,
and slept amazingly well.
The next day, we did what Hassan called the K.A.H., or
Kick-Ass Hike. Its more official name is “Chutes and Ladders,” because during
it you climb up hand-made ladders right next to a waterfall. The hike was a
looong day, a full 9 hours, but never had a dull moment: we saw three more
waterfalls, ate lunch while little fish ate the dead skin off of our feet (yes,
gross), drank lots and lots of spring water (don’t worry, we had iodine), and
climbed up nine ladders made of vines on the face of a cliff. The hike started
with a loooooong descent into the valley, including one part where we literally
climbed down through a rocky, slippery stream, most of which we spent on our
butts. We hiked through the valley for a while, enjoying the view of the cliffs
and coming quite close to a group of baboons, stopped for lunch at a stream at
the base of the cliff, and climbed ladders back up. After the ladders, we
climbed and climbed some more, stopping at yet another waterfall to swim, then
once we reached the top, worn out and sweaty, we had to cross back over to the
base camp. All in all, it was exhausting but wonderful.
The next day, we were all sore but Hassan insisted he’d take
us on a nice and easy hike, and he was true to his words. He took us down into
these incredible rock formations, where you climb on vines. (Fittingly, he
calls this hike the “Indiana Jones.”) It was a gentle but stunning hike, and
literally did look like a movie scene.
We made it back to the compound by noon, signed Hassan’s
impressive guest book, and headed on out.
| One of the many waterfalls we swam in |
| Ready to rock the KAH |
| ET rock! |
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| Climbing up ladders |
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| Indiana Jones! Aka, Hassan |
I spent two more nights in Labe, and it was a bit of a
reunion for our stage since about 16 of us were there. It was fun, but by
Sunday I was ready to get back to my village, where I was planning on spending
the second week of break.
Getting back to site was, as always, really nice. I was
happy to see everyone and give them the expected gift from the Fouta: potatoes.
I spent several days relaxing, going on bike rides to neighboring villages,
working on my grades for the trimester, studying Malinke, and hanging out with
Hawa, my best friend in Cissela. Another volunteer came to visit for a few
days, and we made pancakes and ate them with care package maple syrup: YUM.
However, quite unfortunately, I got really sick that week,
with all sorts of scary symptoms: chest pains, high fever that wouldn’t go
away, and GI issues. Finally, this past Sunday, after being sick for 5 days,
the Peace Corps doctor told me to go to Kankan, my regional capital, where I am
now. Getting here was not pleasant: I needed to find a way to get the 2K from
my hut to the paved road where I hitchhike, meaning a car had to come and get
me, which was very embarrassing since cars are nearly never in my village and I
had to draw so much attention to myself. I was dizzy and weak and feverish when
flagging down cars, but luckily I found one pretty easily, although I don’t even
want to remember what it felt like driving on that awful road in the state I
was in. BUT: I made it here and once I got here the Peace Corps car drove me
around, got me some antibiotics and pain meds, although I still never really
found out what was wrong with me I’m finally better today and I’ll be going
back to my village tomorrow. Despite how awful traveling was, I think I needed
to get out of my village: yes, I love it, but after spending several days in a
ridiculously hot one room hut with a high fever, I needed a change of scenery,
and although here I continued to sweat and have a high fever, I also had Peace
Corps support if I needed it, and running water so I could rinse off whenever I
wanted.
So…back to my village tomorrow! This weekend I have lots and
lots of activities planned for malaria month, which I’ll write about more in my
next post. That’s all for now, thanks for reading!
Friday, March 8, 2013
TARA YE BO LA
Again, I apologize for the long stint with no posts. But I
am still here! Just very very very hot. (The meaning of the title of this post is: it's hot.) Yes, it is hot season here in Guinea.
Every day it is sweltering, and unfortunately it does not cool down at night,
so sleeping has been rough. Two months of this, and then the rains will come,
and fortunately mango season is coming in the next few weeks, so there are
upsides!
The past few months have gone quite well. Here are some
highlights:
Traveling the Fouta
In early February, I traveled to a fellow G22-er, Kelsey’s,
village. I hitchhiked my way there (this is how I get around, as it is the only
way to get out of my village), which is always an adventure. This time around I
was in an air-conditioned car with 4-wheel drive (YES!) filled with Cote
d’Ivoirian auditors headed to Conakry. They spoke French that I could hardly
understand and were not very knowledgeable about Guinea; they had never heard
of Peace Corps and were shocked that I didn’t have internet. When I said I
didn’t even have electricity, their jaws dropped. Regardless, when we arrived in Mamou they refused any money
as they knew I was a volunteer, which was nice and has happened now four times
in my travels.
Kelsey lives in a village called Ditin, around 30k off of
the national highway to Labe on bumpy dirt road over a mountain. The village
itself is in a valley, but it’s surrounded by mountains on all sides and
therefore the setting is pretty stunning. Ditin is in the Fouta region, where
people speak Pulaar, not Malinke. It’s interesting to see and hear not only how
different the language is, but also how different the people are. By no means
am I an expert on the Malinke, but my short taste of the Pulaar was
interesting; they seemed much quieter and perhaps more reserved than the
Malinke.
I spent two nights in Ditin. Our full day there, Kelsey and
I walked to a giant waterfall about 5 miles from her village. The walk was
beautiful, with mountains in the distance and the giant waterfall in sight.
We were covered in sweat by the time that we arrived, so we
were thinking that we may want to swim, but the minute we got within fifty feet
of the falls we were covered in goose bumps. The water was COLD and it was
sending out a constant mist in our faces. It felt pretty amazing; we sat on a
patch of grass and napped for a few hours, had a picnic, and relaxed some more
until we felt we had enough energy to make the trek back. That night we cooked
a delicious squash soup (so jealous that they have squash in her region) and
slept unbelievably well.
The next day we left for In Service Training, a weeklong
workshop in Mamou, a city in the Fouta. It was a great week; it was the first
time in four months that our training group had been together since swearing in
four months ago. Throughout the training we covered lots: we spent the first
half of the week talking about teaching, sharing common problems and solutions
in the classroom, and discussing technical issues that we have teaching
English. It was nice (although a little disheartening) to hear that my problems
are not at all unique, and my school is no less functional than anyone else’s.
I also got to meet with the Malinke teacher to bombard him with the billions of
questions that have popped in my head over the past few months, which was great.
The second half of the week, we talked about secondary projects that we can do
throughout the school year and during the upcoming summer break. It was nice to
remember that although we are teachers, we can do more than just that in our
communities. Peace Corps told us how we can apply for small grants and how to
design and manage a project. We had sessions on life skills (such as HIV/AIDS
education), food security, and malaria. All in all, it was a productive week,
and seeing the 21 other members of my stage was just what the doctor ordered.
Life in Cissela
Site has been really great lately. Teaching is still
teaching, but I feel like I’m finally making some headway in my 10th
grade biology class (I think they finally understand enzymes!) and my 9th
graders have really surprised me with their recent motivation. A few weeks ago
we had a “Proclamation des Resultats,” where we read off student rankings for
the first trimester of school. About ten parents showed up, which was
apparently much higher attendance than the previous year. Before Peace Corps I probably
would’ve been against such a public announcement of ranks and comparisons
between students, but honestly I think this has been the greatest motivator for
my students. If anything, they are competitive, and they want to beat their
classmates, so I’ve noticed their work has gotten better since that day.
Somewhat by accident, I’ve started a girls club in my
village that seems to be pretty successful (at least in that they actually show
up). At this point in 9th grade biology we’re going over puberty and
reproduction. In the class of 25 only 6 are girls, and they’ve all been pretty
silent throughout the lessons, so I asked them if they wanted to talk about
these topics without the boys. This was met with such an enthusiastic response;
I couldn’t help but be surprised. Girls that hardly ever open their mouth
responded with an eager “OUI, MADAME!” So that Tuesday, I had the girls over to
my hut; we sat in my back yard and I answered all of their questions. As soon
as the rest of the girls in the middle school got wind of this, they all asked
if they could come over on Tuesday nights, and the rest is history. I think it
will be a good forum to begin my secondary projects, which is exciting.
What else happened this month? Well, I attended my first Guinean funeral, which was upsetting to say the least (lots of very loud crying), but it was my best friend in village aunt's that died so I'm happy that I was there. The day after the funeral, the friend (named Maitresse) and I had a really long talk about all sorts of things: family members dying and coping with loss, her struggle with generating an income for her family, her search of a husband and that she doesn't want to get married (so rare here), among other things. Honestly, it was the first time in my five months at site that I really felt like I was connecting with someone on a level deeper than just a superficial friendship, so I kind of think of this conversation as a milestone.
Also, now that it's hot season I never want to cook dinner because by the evening it's about 1021091 degrees in my hut, so I've been cooking with Hawa (in my host family) every night. She now leaves me to make the sauce on my own for the whole family every night, which I'm more than happy to do since they are so generous with me and I love sitting down and eating with them. They really make me feel lucky to be in Cissela.
Unrest in Guinea
The most stressful part of being here over the past few weeks has been the civil unrest in Conakry, the capital, and other major cities throughout the country. It all stems from legislative elections that were supposed to be coming up on May 12th. However, the president did not confirm this date by the deadline (this past Sunday), and this has sparked a lot of violent demonstrations throughout the country, mostly stemming from ethnic tensions between the president's supporters, belonging to one ethnic group, and his opponents, from another ethnic group. The protests got pretty violent this past week, sparking several deaths and many more injuries. Right now, things are a lot calmer, but it's unclear as to what the future holds for Guinea. In the mean time, Peace Corps is revising its EAP (emergency action plan -- basically where we go if we need to consolidate in country or to be evacuated) and we're going to do a drill in the coming month where we'll have to travel to our consolidation points. Regardless of the political situation, this is a good idea, since really anything can happen in a country with such a weak political structure as it is here. So... I'm keeping my fingers crossed, for the sake of Guinea and for my future here.
Okay, I need to stop writing and go fan myself. It is way too hot to function. I'm in Kankan right now for a weekend long "Malaria Training," where we've been learning about how to hold malaria sensitizations and other malaria-focused projects we can do at our sites. The one upside to being here is we've set up our mattresses and mosquito nets on the roof, where it's actually a somewhat bearable temperature. I'm off to drink a gallon of water. FAREWELL!
Thursday, January 24, 2013
Madame, PARDON!
Happy six month anniversary, Guinea. Well actually, as I write this, I'm nearly at the seven month mark. But six months sounds like a nicer, rounder number so we'll keep it at that.
Greetings from Kankan! Not going to lie, I really needed my monthly weekend away from Cissela. It's a breath of fresh air to be out of there. Things at site this month were up and down, up and down, up and down. The ups definitely outweigh the downs so I'm still feeling good, but I think my two days away will be rejuvenating.
Coming back from Senegal felt really great. I was so happy to see my host family and give everyone their gifts. Over the past few months, I've gotten much closer with my family. It definitely helps now that my Malinke is getting better, since the only member of the family that speaks French is my host father, and he's never there. I'm finally starting to figure out who is who in the family, which is not an easy task as there are upwards of 25 people. My host father has three wives (polygamy is permitted and really common here). The eldest was actually his brother's wife, but his brother passed away some years back so he "inherited" her (yes, I am very uncomfortable with this and can write more about it later). She has two sons. The second wife, Fanta, lives in the hut next to mine. She has four daughters, including two twins that are in 4th grade. His third and youngest wife, Bintou, has two boys, Mamady and Bakary. But that isn't even the half of our family members! The three women I spend the most time with, Hawa, Bantan, and Diama, are all somehow related to my host father, but I haven't quite figured out how. Perhaps they are nieces? Hawa says she is 22 (I don't believe her -- she looks so much older), and Bantan and Diama are a few years older. Both Hawa and Bantan's husbands live in different cities and they hope to join them soon. Hawa has a one-year-old, Saran, who is maybe the cutest thing ever. Bantan's daughter, Fatoumata, is the child that died in my compound a few months back. She has another daughter that lives in Conakry, the capital, with other family members (it is very common in Guinea to have children live with aunts and uncles, usually for financial reasons). As far as I know, Diama is unmarried and has no kids, which is really rare in Guinea. She's a tailor and the only woman in the family that knows a little French. There are many more people that live in our compound: three men, two women, and a number of kids, but I still can't quite figure out how they figure into the mix. Let's just say that "family" is a very loose term here. When people introduce others as their "big brother" or "little sister," I can't really trust that as I would in the states.
Regardless, I spend a lot of time with my host family. Usually after teaching, I spend a few hours grading and lesson planning, sometimes I bike to my principal's house for lunch, but almost always I cook dinner with Hawa and Bantan, even if I don't end up eating with them. Pretty much 100 percent of the time we are making rice and sauce, and I will say I'm getting very good at it. We cook outside, behind my host father's hut, over fire. Now that I've done it a bunch they let me actually do things like pound the onion and dried fish with the giant mortar and pestle. Baby steps! One night Hawa went to go shower and left me to cook the entire meal for twenty people by myself. I must have looked hilarious, as my students kept walking past and yelling "MADAME!" in shocked voices. I actually end up eating with my host family about twice a week. As much as I don't like the food, sometimes I just don't want to go into my hut, close the door, and cook a meal for one. I eat using my hand with the ladies and kids, out of one giant, communal bowl. Afterwards, we light a fire and sit around talking. Right now it is cold season and it is TRULY cold at night (in the high forties), making it nearly impossible to get out of bed for school in the morning. I do, however, love being bundled up, and I'm dreading hot season which is coming in a few weeks... Anyway, I'd say Hawa is the reason my Malinke is getting anywhere. I did manage to find a real Malinke teacher who I adore, but speaking is always a little intimidating. Hawa grabs me a stool, sits next to me, and makes me talk, talk, talk. It's great now that we can actually have conversations, even if I do sound like a toddler.
January 15th was Tess' birthday, so after class I biked to her village to spend the day there. We cooked an incredibly lavish meal, fajitas with homemade tortillas, which we couldn't believe we were able to make in a HUT! Unfortunately on the way back I had a pretty nasty fall off of my bike due to a plethora of cows on the road. I was very beat up but fortunately a lady was there walking back to her village and she cleaned off all of the blood. The downside is that Guinea is maybe the dirtiest country ever so despite my greatest efforts the deepest cut on my leg still got infected and I got a very high fever one night, but I promptly started antibiotics the next day and I'm still on the mend. Also I still managed to not miss a day of school, although I did bleed through my clothes for a few days there. The following weekend, a bunch of volunteers came to my village to stay in the fancy shmancy hotel that is up at the paved road for a little birthday celebration. It is a weirdly nice place owned by a man from Benin, but we certainly enjoyed ourselves, and everyone in my village officially thinks I'm the weirdest person ever for paying to stay there when my hut was only 2k away. To be fair, the rooms were about $2 per person.
So I'd say right now I'm living two lives in my village: the life where I go to school and it's not particularly pleasant, and the life after school that is wonderful. School has certainly gotten easier than it was at the beginning of the year, but it's still a hurdle. Fortunately, my second round of tests in nearly all of my classes was met with much a higher success rate than the first round, which was encouraging to say the least. I've been particularly happy with the 10th grade, where I see students who originally seemed unmotivated getting their act together. Also, we finally got a math teacher last week! Thank the lord. Biology has been a struggle. First of all, as I mentioned before, the students' level of French leaves something to be desired, so it's really tough to teach them when they don't understand every other word that comes out of my mouth. I am struggling to come up with creative ways to present the information and keep the students going or simple experiments we can do with the few materials I have. This past week was perhaps the worst couple of days I've had at school. My principal has been out of town, so it's just been us teachers, meaning I'm the only one that shows up on time. On Tuesday I had my 8th grade Biology class. 8th grade has always been the most troublesome in terms of behavior, but I've managed to keep them under control. However, on Tuesday they completely lost it, ending with a physical fight in class. I ran out to find another teacher to help me break it up, but the school was deserted... all of the other teachers had gone home early. When I came back into the 8th grade, it was like they remembered I existed and they all went silent. I told them that until things changed, I would no longer teach 8th grade. They all flipped out and asked for me to forgive them (screaming PARDON! PARDON!), but unfortunately I know those apologies are empty for most of the students. Well, long story short the next day the 8th graders that acted out had to bring in their parents to talk to the Directeur des Etudes (basically assistant principal), ending in a giant, school-wide apology to me. I think that we were all a little embarrassed: me, for letting my class get so out of hand, and the school, for the behavior of the students. We'll see how things go next week.
I don't want you to think that school is a horrible disaster everyday, but I just don't want to sanitize my blog posts. Honestly, I do love my students and most days I end up having fun in the classroom, but this week really pushed me to the limit. I did have some really fun lessons, including a giant scavenger hunt in my 9th grade English class (jolly ranchers were the prize at the end) and an experiment we did in Biology locating our taste buds using coffee, limes, sugar water, and salt water. There are definitely days that I leave school feeling jazzed up and optimistic. My principal is such a good guy, and he really pours his heart into the school, so it's encouraging to see someone that is so optimistic about education.
Christmas came late this month, too: I got FIVE packages. A bajillion thanks to those who have sent me love from America. I truly did have a Christmas celebration in my hut, thanks to the Santa hat Molly sent!
As a postscript, I'll just mention some sad news: nearly a fifth of our training group has gone back to the states, both for personal and health reasons. It is really sad for all of us, since we did get so close during training. In a few weeks we have our In Service Training (IST), so those of us that remain will be reunited to share stories and ideas for teaching. I'm very much looking forward to seeing so many people that I haven't seen in four months! To those that went home, we'll be missing you. Eat a burrito for me.
Greetings from Kankan! Not going to lie, I really needed my monthly weekend away from Cissela. It's a breath of fresh air to be out of there. Things at site this month were up and down, up and down, up and down. The ups definitely outweigh the downs so I'm still feeling good, but I think my two days away will be rejuvenating.
Coming back from Senegal felt really great. I was so happy to see my host family and give everyone their gifts. Over the past few months, I've gotten much closer with my family. It definitely helps now that my Malinke is getting better, since the only member of the family that speaks French is my host father, and he's never there. I'm finally starting to figure out who is who in the family, which is not an easy task as there are upwards of 25 people. My host father has three wives (polygamy is permitted and really common here). The eldest was actually his brother's wife, but his brother passed away some years back so he "inherited" her (yes, I am very uncomfortable with this and can write more about it later). She has two sons. The second wife, Fanta, lives in the hut next to mine. She has four daughters, including two twins that are in 4th grade. His third and youngest wife, Bintou, has two boys, Mamady and Bakary. But that isn't even the half of our family members! The three women I spend the most time with, Hawa, Bantan, and Diama, are all somehow related to my host father, but I haven't quite figured out how. Perhaps they are nieces? Hawa says she is 22 (I don't believe her -- she looks so much older), and Bantan and Diama are a few years older. Both Hawa and Bantan's husbands live in different cities and they hope to join them soon. Hawa has a one-year-old, Saran, who is maybe the cutest thing ever. Bantan's daughter, Fatoumata, is the child that died in my compound a few months back. She has another daughter that lives in Conakry, the capital, with other family members (it is very common in Guinea to have children live with aunts and uncles, usually for financial reasons). As far as I know, Diama is unmarried and has no kids, which is really rare in Guinea. She's a tailor and the only woman in the family that knows a little French. There are many more people that live in our compound: three men, two women, and a number of kids, but I still can't quite figure out how they figure into the mix. Let's just say that "family" is a very loose term here. When people introduce others as their "big brother" or "little sister," I can't really trust that as I would in the states.
Regardless, I spend a lot of time with my host family. Usually after teaching, I spend a few hours grading and lesson planning, sometimes I bike to my principal's house for lunch, but almost always I cook dinner with Hawa and Bantan, even if I don't end up eating with them. Pretty much 100 percent of the time we are making rice and sauce, and I will say I'm getting very good at it. We cook outside, behind my host father's hut, over fire. Now that I've done it a bunch they let me actually do things like pound the onion and dried fish with the giant mortar and pestle. Baby steps! One night Hawa went to go shower and left me to cook the entire meal for twenty people by myself. I must have looked hilarious, as my students kept walking past and yelling "MADAME!" in shocked voices. I actually end up eating with my host family about twice a week. As much as I don't like the food, sometimes I just don't want to go into my hut, close the door, and cook a meal for one. I eat using my hand with the ladies and kids, out of one giant, communal bowl. Afterwards, we light a fire and sit around talking. Right now it is cold season and it is TRULY cold at night (in the high forties), making it nearly impossible to get out of bed for school in the morning. I do, however, love being bundled up, and I'm dreading hot season which is coming in a few weeks... Anyway, I'd say Hawa is the reason my Malinke is getting anywhere. I did manage to find a real Malinke teacher who I adore, but speaking is always a little intimidating. Hawa grabs me a stool, sits next to me, and makes me talk, talk, talk. It's great now that we can actually have conversations, even if I do sound like a toddler.
January 15th was Tess' birthday, so after class I biked to her village to spend the day there. We cooked an incredibly lavish meal, fajitas with homemade tortillas, which we couldn't believe we were able to make in a HUT! Unfortunately on the way back I had a pretty nasty fall off of my bike due to a plethora of cows on the road. I was very beat up but fortunately a lady was there walking back to her village and she cleaned off all of the blood. The downside is that Guinea is maybe the dirtiest country ever so despite my greatest efforts the deepest cut on my leg still got infected and I got a very high fever one night, but I promptly started antibiotics the next day and I'm still on the mend. Also I still managed to not miss a day of school, although I did bleed through my clothes for a few days there. The following weekend, a bunch of volunteers came to my village to stay in the fancy shmancy hotel that is up at the paved road for a little birthday celebration. It is a weirdly nice place owned by a man from Benin, but we certainly enjoyed ourselves, and everyone in my village officially thinks I'm the weirdest person ever for paying to stay there when my hut was only 2k away. To be fair, the rooms were about $2 per person.
So I'd say right now I'm living two lives in my village: the life where I go to school and it's not particularly pleasant, and the life after school that is wonderful. School has certainly gotten easier than it was at the beginning of the year, but it's still a hurdle. Fortunately, my second round of tests in nearly all of my classes was met with much a higher success rate than the first round, which was encouraging to say the least. I've been particularly happy with the 10th grade, where I see students who originally seemed unmotivated getting their act together. Also, we finally got a math teacher last week! Thank the lord. Biology has been a struggle. First of all, as I mentioned before, the students' level of French leaves something to be desired, so it's really tough to teach them when they don't understand every other word that comes out of my mouth. I am struggling to come up with creative ways to present the information and keep the students going or simple experiments we can do with the few materials I have. This past week was perhaps the worst couple of days I've had at school. My principal has been out of town, so it's just been us teachers, meaning I'm the only one that shows up on time. On Tuesday I had my 8th grade Biology class. 8th grade has always been the most troublesome in terms of behavior, but I've managed to keep them under control. However, on Tuesday they completely lost it, ending with a physical fight in class. I ran out to find another teacher to help me break it up, but the school was deserted... all of the other teachers had gone home early. When I came back into the 8th grade, it was like they remembered I existed and they all went silent. I told them that until things changed, I would no longer teach 8th grade. They all flipped out and asked for me to forgive them (screaming PARDON! PARDON!), but unfortunately I know those apologies are empty for most of the students. Well, long story short the next day the 8th graders that acted out had to bring in their parents to talk to the Directeur des Etudes (basically assistant principal), ending in a giant, school-wide apology to me. I think that we were all a little embarrassed: me, for letting my class get so out of hand, and the school, for the behavior of the students. We'll see how things go next week.
I don't want you to think that school is a horrible disaster everyday, but I just don't want to sanitize my blog posts. Honestly, I do love my students and most days I end up having fun in the classroom, but this week really pushed me to the limit. I did have some really fun lessons, including a giant scavenger hunt in my 9th grade English class (jolly ranchers were the prize at the end) and an experiment we did in Biology locating our taste buds using coffee, limes, sugar water, and salt water. There are definitely days that I leave school feeling jazzed up and optimistic. My principal is such a good guy, and he really pours his heart into the school, so it's encouraging to see someone that is so optimistic about education.
Christmas came late this month, too: I got FIVE packages. A bajillion thanks to those who have sent me love from America. I truly did have a Christmas celebration in my hut, thanks to the Santa hat Molly sent!
As a postscript, I'll just mention some sad news: nearly a fifth of our training group has gone back to the states, both for personal and health reasons. It is really sad for all of us, since we did get so close during training. In a few weeks we have our In Service Training (IST), so those of us that remain will be reunited to share stories and ideas for teaching. I'm very much looking forward to seeing so many people that I haven't seen in four months! To those that went home, we'll be missing you. Eat a burrito for me.
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